Trend Research

Colour Analysis & Levels For A/W 2011

Clean, clear neutrals emerge as stark non-colour.

True, untinted greys, such as dove and woodpigeon, reflect silvery or smoky hues.

Nut and conker take on the colours of nature, and red-cast browns influence a new range of russet shades.

Amber and tortoiseshell tones replace true yellows, with softer creams and yellow blondes creating warmer winter pales.

Red is one of the key shades for the season, ranging from dramatic, historical cardinal and oxblood through to fiery orange-based shades.

Bruised purple and plum are rich and ripe in tone, with cyclamen providing a pop contrast to softer lilac pastels.

Greens take on a bluer cast, from rich mallard and herb sage tones through to ice-cool Arctic pales.

Blues are standalone item shades, leaning towards more purple-cast mid-tones and artificial aquamarines

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Materials 

Dragged

Shifting surfaces capture movement and fluid drape is frozen in time with silky shine, satin gleam and contour pleat chiffon.

Dust

Felted, fibrous, flocked, gritty and pigmented effects give a powdered finished to felted suitings, brushed cotton and moleskin canvas. Ultra-soft felted wools and clipped-pile chenille jersey have a dusty aspect with brushed and mottled surface effects.

Gathered pattern

The irregular patterns of gathered dust particles inspire bouclé, needle-punched and shrunken embellishments. Placement pilling and felting adds aged texture to knits and jersey devorés.

Gathered pattern

The irregular patterns of gathered dust particles inspire bouclé, needle-punched and shrunken embellishments. Placement pilling and felting adds aged texture to knits and jersey devorés.

Magnified pattern

The delicate patterns of insects and butterflies inspire detailed jacquards and hand-painted warps in prismatic colours, polluted overlays and soft shimmer finishes.

Scavenged jacquards

Recontextualise ornate interior wovens with an embossed matt/shine relief and use for contemporary tailoring. Darken and fleck with overfoiling, ombré colouring and lurex highlights inspired by oxidised and burnished patinas.

Floating yarn embellishment

Floating yarn is trapped for contrast control and random woven stripes, echoed in hand-drawn linear prints with exaggerated yarn embellishments. Fabrics are delicate and experimental with the introduction of unusual yarns and trapped thread-work techniques.

Exaggerated slub

Scratched coloured casts reveal whitened linear slubs and a coarse and dry handle, while wool melangé yarns and hand-painted warps soften the rustic appeal. Kilim-looking heavy dimensional linier wovens have a subtle folk-blanket feel.

Pattern relief

Contrast yarn and matt/shine combinations explore three-dimensional jacquards with accentuated relief for dense outerwear. Decorative rich cloqué, damask and kantha-stitch quilting give bubble decoration with a lightly wadded appearance.
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